Friday, June 13, 2014

9 June Ruitelan to Fonfria

Monday 9 June Ruitelan 7am
165km to Santiago.
Today I have been 4 weeks on the Camino. I struggle to remember life before it. I also notice I have slowed down my routines. I am no longer in a maf rush to be up and on the trail and am usually one of the last to leave the albergue in the morning. Beautiful music in the albergue this morning. At first it was quiet and contemplative progressively becoming jolly and bouncy. I was singing along with Abba I believe in Angels as I came into the dining room. I hope I don't finish up singing it all day.

Fonfria 1:30pm. 143km to Santiago
This is at the start of the descent down the last mountain on the Camino. It is 1200m high.The highest point is 1330m.
Kept trying all day but noone would let me carry their pack today. It rained lightly for 3  hours today from the C
near the Galicia border until the highest point.  Looking back from 5 days later I think this was my favourite day on the Camino.

I spent the last 2km talking with Xavier the teacher with a group of final year school children from Astoria who are walking to Santiago having started on Friday from Ponferrada. They all seem in good spirits.  I was tempted to go on the 9km to Triacastels but I like being in the smaller albergues away from the stage endsnin the guide. The view from the lounge windows is stunning. It looks across the valley to the bush covered hills on the other dide. There is a herd of about a dozen cows in the field just out the window grazing. They have horns only a couple have bells. I wonder if they are the ones the herd follows or the wanderers.

There are a few places that offer horse rides to O'Cebreiro.In places the track is a bit of a mess as a result of the horses feet sinking into the mud. There was a statue of a pilgrim on the height above O'Cebreiro but it was raining and misty do I didn't stop.  There was a tour coach there - none of the tourists had got out of the bus but the driver was standing on the bottom step with the door open having a cigarette. If it had been a New Zealand tour company his days in the job would be limited.

Fonfria 8pm
A very good meal tonight in a round house. This isn't a traditional Galician one but a new build as a restaurant. I think the building is of similar proportions as a traditional one but internally it has a panel ceiling rather than the undrr side of the thatch. The food was plentiful and good - a vege soup, beef stew & spuds and Tart de Santiago.

After dinner bsck to the bar for a cold cure designed by Antonio who is an Italian who has lived most of his life in Australia - paracetamol washed doen by a drink of hot milk honey snd grappa. 

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