Wednesday, May 28, 2014

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos 24 May

San Juan de Ortega 6:45am
Had a fun dinner last night with Patricia and Jolene and Katy from Alberta who are 23 and have been best friends since primary school. Also Jim from London and Josh joined us for drinks. Oh and did I mention several 4 euro bottles of vino tinto (red wine). The menu was extremely limited just 3 dishes.I ate the tuna epinada (pie) and blood sausage as I was hungry and that was the biggest dish on the menu. I'm hoping for some decent food in Burgos. (Bloody phone refuses to learn Burgos as a word).

The Camino has hit a new low. When I went to the toilet before bed there was heaps of toilet paper. At 4:30am when I needed to go some one had stolen the lot. It was all missing in the womens loos last night and Katy took my napkin so she could use it. I had seen signs in other albergues but hadn't realized toilet paper theft was a major crime wave on the Camino. Why can't people just buy it if they need to carry some.  You pass a shop nearly every day.

I' m not sure how far I have to walk to find breakfast so I am snacking on some of the biscuits I bought yesterday. The albergue is almost empty already. No idea why everyone is going so early as it is only 25km to Burgos (yahoo phone has finally learnt it) and it has heaps of accommodation. I may have to find a bar tonight and watch the Spanish watching the Real Madrid / Athletico match.

Atapuerca 9am
Definitely doing the Camino slowly today as I am only just over 5km from San Juan de Ortega but it is a short stage and I will be in Burgos by 2pm.I made the wrong decision staying in San Juan de Ortega. Ages is a much better village. Atapuerca is where the oldest archealogical remains in Europe have been found - 900,000  years old. This won't be the first site people lived in in Europe as it is a long way from Africa even if the entry was across the Straits of Gibraltar and not as more likely through the middle east. I had a nice breakfast in Ages- tosta de Catalan - toast with tomato and olive oil. .I only had a 50:euro note and the woman made a big fuss about changing it. Then when I gave her a 2 euro tip she went over the moon.  She rang a bell, squeaked a toy fuck and set a cat that waved a paw in motion and gave me a hug. The breakfast only cost 3 euro and I would have paid that just to use the toilet. I won't be staying long this rest stop as it is cold when I'm not moving. The caves are 3km out of town so I won't be visiting.

Punto de la Vista 10am
I am sitting in the middle of a prayer spiral at the high point between Atapuerca and Burgos. As yet I can't see Burgos.  The track from here to Burgos has many options and many opportunities to get lost.  God keep me alert to the signs and way marks and let me find the peaceful route along the river and not have to walk through busy streets.

Orbaneja 11:45am
I saw no one most of the way here.  The path goes across the fields and looking at the very few foot prints it is obvious not many people use that path. The way marks keep pointing down into the villages from which you need to walk along the road.  After yesterday's wind it is so good to have a still day. There is a gentle breeze but as I came across the fields it was dead still. The wind turbines are not turning. The wild flowers were beautiful. I'm eating a chocolate custard bun and drinking orange juice as this is the last food stop before Burgos when it will be about 2pm and a bit late for lunch.

Albergue Casa de Petegrinos Emaus. Burgos. 
Just been down to see Burgos Cathedral. I think it is an obscenity. All those bishops producing a chapel more ostentatious than the one before. Where did all that wealth come from?

This is the only albergue I have been in that is segregated. The"mens room" is full so there must be quite a few people here even though I have only seen 3. A couple who came in at the same time as me got pushed off to another room rather than being srgregated.
I never saw another pilgrim on the walk along the river.  Lots of white fluffy seed cases blowing down from the trees. The ground is almost white. I am very tired and relieved to have a space here as it is quiet

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