Thursday, May 29, 2014

May 26 Hornillos de Camino to Puente Fitero.

Hornillos de Camino 6:30am
Today is two weeks on the Camino and 3 weeks to go.I think some people on the Camino just walk and sleep - I'm gettingssick of being ssshed in the afternoon and fumbling around in the dark to get ready for bed in the evening and when I pack in the morning. This Casa Rural claims to have a do it yourself breakfast. There is a coffee maker so got that bit done;  tea bags but no way to heat water other than a pot on the stove.  Turned out there was a toaster that does one side only but I didn't recognize that. There is also the first loaf of sliced bread I have seen in Spain.  I found enough for breakfast. Still fuming about missing out on calamari yesterday. The bar was packed and the staff overwhelmed. By the time we left the waitress was really tired and had lost her good humour. At 4pm they announced the Town Hall would open at 8pm so people were hanging around the bar waiting to get in. Found out much later it finally opened at 9:15.Shared a table at dinner with 4 irish women an irish man a welsh man and Liz from Sydney.
It was great sleeping in a real bed with sheets ladt night. A shower with heaps of hot water and without a button you have to press every minute to keep it going.

Castrojeriz 12 noon. 480.4km to Santiago.
This is the end of a stage in the guide book. Lots of people queueing up waiting for the albergues to open. I am having allunch stop before proceeding to Itero fe la Vega. It is a nice day and it seems silly to stop at lunch time.  I will arrive there before 4 pm making 31km for the day. I tried to get an old Spanish lady to let me carry her pack for 1km but she was suspicious and wouldn't let me. Instead I carried the pack for Veronique from Paris 1km.
Walking the meseta is easy. The surface is good and the grades are fairly gentle.  However the climb ahead is described as steep but it is only a climb of 125m so it can't be too tough. I've been singing as I walk again today. It is a glorious day - sunny but enough breeze to keep it cool. My feet are hurting a little so I have taken some more voltarin to get me over the hill and 11km to bed.

San Nicholas de Puente Fitero
This is a medieval pilgrims refuge recently renovated and run by an Italian group. It is considered one of the best experiences on the Camino and I did not expect to get a place. So I have walked 2km less than I had expected. There is a foot washing before the candlelight dinner and I get to sleep on a mattress next to the altar. The book says only 12 places and I was number 12 in the queue so I gave that place to Kirsty who works at Alexander Turnbull but it turns out that they now have 5 extra places.

Jolene from Alberta went charging past me on the climb from Castrojeriz as if I was standing still. I caught up when she stopped for a rest at the top. Katie who was with her took a bus to Leon ad she has bad blisters. I gave Jolene one of the heel pads in the hope it can get Katie walking again. I also carried Jolene"s pack for a bit before she went on ahead. There was no one around when I took the pack but around the corner was a rest area with seats. Jolene felt really embarrassed that all those people saw me with 2 packs while she carried nothing.

Just before San Nicholas I came across Helga an older German woman I had seen on the Camino but not talked to . She has twisted her ankle and is waiting to be picked up. Her Camino is over.


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