Sunday, June 8, 2014

5 June El Ganso to El Acebo

El Ganso 7:40am
I have cut up one of Mepilex Heels to put over the blisters on my right foot. Also as I sought of expected I got my head bitten off by Susan  when I tried to tell her I was concerned with what she was doing in the evenings. I think I need to somehow get to different albergues as I am allowing her to persuade me into drinking too much and staying up late. However I did cook last night for the first time since leaving Wellington which I wouldn't have done just for me so it isn't all bad. I went to bed at 11pm which is way after the 10pm lights out. Susan and Ian only went to bed when the hospitalero told them to. I can't believe I can drink that much wine and still feel good in the morning.

Cruz de Ferro 12 noon
This is the highest point on the Camino at 1504 metres. The cross is a simple metal cross at the top of a very large pole. Heaped around it are the millions of rocks that pilgrims have left here. After a cool morning it is a beautiful day. There is almost no wind and lying here is very pleasant. I was a bit worried when a coach arrived just as I did that my experience was about to be ruined by tourists but the bus was empty.  They arrived half an hour later in sneakers and fancy clothes carrying hand bags. I met Charles and Ann-Claire from Brussels this morning. They are very disciplined in reducing the weight they carry and now have it down to 12 kg between them. We csught up with Agned from France approaching Rabinal. I carried her pack for 1 km and then Charles carried it about 4 km into Rabinal.

About half sn hour ago Agnes who I had caught up to ahsin pointed out a cloud with a hole in it. Shr said Santiago is watching us through the hole. I forgotten that the pilgrimage is about moving towards the person Santiago as well as the place Santiago. It has been pleasant lying here in the sun and listening to the happiness in peoples voices at reaching here but it is time to move on.

El Acebo 4pm
Susan is more annoyed about my remarks than I expected. I did try to apologize 10 minutes later but she brushed me off and now is having nothing to do with me. The trip today has been envigorating. I went to look for the Cruce Militares thst Brierley has in his guide book.  It was only much later after thinking I had failed I looked at his picture carefully snd realized it was the concrete block with a fee stones heaped on top that I had passed a few minutes after starting the hunt. The complex structure on top of the concrete in Brierley's guide had collapsed. The views over the valley were worth the extra 30m of altitude that required. Ad was the opportunity to be totally alone - I dropped just over the ridge and disappeared from view from the Camino. For lunch I finally got the Calamares I have craved for weeks. Truly scrumptious.

El Acebo 9:30pm
I wad just on my way to bed and the waitress said "Good night Mike". That really made my day as with 40 people in the place she remembered my name. 

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